Lighting - Bulb and Ballast Selection
I decided to try out a lot of different types of full-spectrum lamps for my
layout and workshop. Which lamp you pick is mostly a matter of personal
preference. Some do perform much better than others, though, so I have
provided a comparison for you here. Select from the links to the left to see
the comparison photos and information.
Full-Spectrum Lighting
A full-spectrum bulb is a bulb that closely mimics the light frequencies of the
sun. These are not the same as "daylight" bulbs. Full-spectrum
bulbs have a Color Rendering Index (CRI) of 90 or higher and are typically
offered in the 5000 to 6500 Kelvin range. 5000 is a "warmer" color (but
technically a cooler color temperature) and 6500 is more "bluish" or
"arctic white". By way of contrast, normal "cool white" fluorescents have
a CRI in the 60s and a color temperature typically around 2700K.
There is more too it than just color temperature, however. Full-spectrum
bulbs try to more closely mimic the spectral output of the sun. Rather
than having huge spikes in the orange and green parts of the spectrum,
full-spectrum bulbs try to have smaller spikes in those areas, and better
output in areas such as the reds.
Full Spectrum bulbs produce a color that has much less of a color cast than
normal lamps. Regular fluorescents produce green, orange and pink
casts. Normal incandescents produce a yellow/red color cast and a lot of
heat.
Full-Spectrum Fluorescent Bulbs
I spent a lot of effort in locating various full-spectrum fluorescent
bulbs. Here are the bulbs that I have purchased and compared.
Specifications are as provided from the manufacturers (except the estimated "~"
lumens, that is a wild guess on my part based on how they compare with the
other bulbs in the test). Prices are for individual bulbs. Quantity
discounts are typically available when ordering six or more bulbs. Prices were
valid at the time I did this survey in late 2003.
Not tried:
-
Triten50 Full Spectrum (generally have a low CRI)
-
Verilux Full Spectrum (didn't feel like purchasing)
-
GE Chroma (wasn't aware of it)
-
Duro-Test Vita-Lite (too expensive - $17 to $27 per bulb, but has good color
temp)
-
Anything that was marked "Daylight" as these are not full-spectrum and are not
worth the money.
I received the Excella and Spectralite bulbs on October 28, 2003, so I am still
comparing them to the other bulbs I have purchased. Originally, my
favorite wass the Paralite Maxum 5000 HO bulb; it is bright and a nice white a
very close second (which may move to first once I get my halogen spots) is the
Paralite Spectra 5900. The color rendering on that bulb is great, but it
does give the room a sligth bluish tint. In the end, I went with the Excella
T12s, as did a friend of mine, because of the superior color rendering.
Please refer to myFull Spectrum
Lighting Comparison for additional information.
Electronic Ballasts for Full-Spectrum Bulbs
Unlike most T12 bulbs, T8 and T10 bulbs typically require electronic
ballasts. However, even if you stick with T12 bulbs, I highly recommend
that you purchase fixtures with electronic ballasts, or retrofit existing
fixtures with new electronic ballasts. Electronic ballasts are quiet (no
hum), make the lamps brighter and almost flicker-free, extend the life of the
lamps, produce almost no interference with sensitive networks or
with computer and wireless equipment (think DCC), typically use less
energy, typically last longer ,and weigh less than magnetic ballasts.
The electronic ballasts I prefer are the Workhorse ballasts. They cost a bit
more than the ones you'll likely find at the big box stores, but I like these
because of their quality and the fact that they are extremely flexible in what
types of lamps they will support. The
Fulham web site also has excellent wiring diagrams and selection guides
to assist you in choosing the correct ballasts for your project. NOTE:
There used to be incorrect information on some dealer web sites that says the
Workhorse ballast can be remotely mounted up to twenty feet from the
fixture. If you want to remotely mount your ballast (to have it power
several fixtures), you must purchase a Longhorse ballast and stay at or under
the supported wattage.
I purchased my Workhorse ballasts through
Natural Lighting (new link as of 2004-09-02). For four-lamp
fixtures such as the two in my shop room, I use a Workhorse 7. For
two-lamp fixtures such as the ones above the yard area of my layout, I use the
Workhorse 5. The wiring diagrams at Fulham helped me make the decisions
as to which one to purchase. Remember, if you plan to remote-mount your
ballasts, you want to order the Longhorse ballasts from a dealer, not the
Workhorse.
Deciding Not to Use a Fixture
I've received information from various folks that they intend to mount the
ballasts and Fluorescent tubes directly to 1x4 or similar lumber. DO NOT DO
THIS. You really need to put the lamps and ballasts in a fixture. Fluorescent
lamps will not start correctly unless there is a piece of grounded (grounded is
important!) metal that runs the entire length of the tube and is within a
certain distance parallel to the tube. Not only will you have problems trying
to start the lamps, but you'll also shorten the life of the tube, cause
potential safety issues, likely violate eletrical code in your area, and
generally make a mess of things (it's hard to mount the tube sockets and to ge
the distance absolutely correct so they don't fall out), and really make it a
pain for you to do the install, just to save what amounts to a little
money. The fixture also helps direct a lot more light to the layout as it has a
reflective (white or mirrored) surface behind the bulbs.
I highly recommend you get the fixtures with the diffuser as these will help
save you and your layout from harsh light and the likely possibility that a
tube gets loose and falls down. If it falls on your layout, you'll be picking
glass and hazardous chemical powder out of your layout for years. If you have
the diffuser (or plastic protection sleeves) you won't have to worry about it.
"True Color" Halogen Bulbs
The Solux 4700K "True Color" bulbs are the only true color halogen bulbs I have
tried out on my layout. Here is the information for those bulbs.
| Brand |
Watts |
Size |
Kelvin |
CRI |
Lumens |
Where |
Price Each |
| Solux 4700K MR16 |
50 |
MR16 |
4700K |
? |
? |
1000 Bulbs.com |
$6.05 |
Please refer to myHalogen Lighting
Comparison for more information.
|